Do you know when to use canola oil instead of butter? Coconut oil instead of avocado oil? Lard instead of schmaltz? Extra virgin instead of âregularâ olive oil?
So many choices, my brain hurts. đŁ Does it really matter what fat you use?
Honestly, you really canât go wrongâexcept in one case (more on that in a bit). But there are a couple of important things to keep in mind.
So letâs talk about oil you need to know! đ
By the way, this will only cover fat as it relates to cooking NOT baking. So if youâre interested in what to do for đ§ or 𼨠or đĽ or đĽ, this wonât help you. Sorry. đ¤ˇââď¸
For some of us, it might as well be a four-letter word. When someone says âfatâ, it doesnât give you good feelings. At least here in the US, we have a diet-crazed culture to thank for that.
But if youâre a serious cook, fat should make you smile. Why?
Fat does three wonderful jobs in the kitchen.
Fat doesn't only bring in its own flavor, it also intensifies and carries flavor. Many spices and herbs are fat-soluble. That means fat brings out their flavor molecules.
Americaâs Test Kitchen did an experiment where they soaked spices and herbs in water and in oil. And guess what? They found up to 10x more flavor molecules in the oil than in the water. đ¤Ż
Fat also improves the conductivity of a foodâs surface. What the heck does that mean? It means it allows the surface to reach higher temperatures. And that's important because effective browning only happens above 300â (150â). Water canât go above 212â (100â). Fat can. Itâs why frying food has a completely different effect than boiling. So for better browning, and therefore more flavor, fat is your friend.
As Harold McGee says in the Keys to Good Cooking, âHigh heat causes food proteins and carbohydrates to form bonds with the pan surface.â In other words, it sticks to the pan!
But fat acts as a barrier. Pans are full of microscopic cracks and crevices. Fats come in and fill up those crevices preventing food from sticking to the pan.
Health reasons aside, when choosing what type of fat to use, it comes down to three things:
1. Flavor: Some fats bring flavor to a dish. Others are neutral-tasting. So when youâre picking a fat, first decide if you want to taste it. And if you do, decide what flavor you want: creamy, smoky, fruity, nutty, the list goes on! This is especially important when fat is the main ingredientâthink pesto, vinaigrettes, or sauces like mayo.
2. Smoke point: All fats start to smoke at a certain temperature and eventually burn. When heated to that smoke point, molecules split causing acrid and bad tasting flavors. Interestingly, itâs the same compound that is released when food is burnt (#NotTheGoodKindofBurnt). Choosing a fat based on your cooking method is the most important thing to consider! You want higher smoke points when charring, frying, searing, or roasting. You can get away with a low smoke point if sauteing or not using any heat.
3. Consistency: Some fats are liquid at room temperature. Others are solidâthink butter, coconut oil, or animal fats. If youâre cooking with it and serving a dish piping hot, consistency wonât matter. But if your dish is going to sit out for a while or be served cold, then you may want to use oil.
Quick note: This is by no means inclusive of all types of fats. But I tried to hit on the big ones.
Slightly less quick note: Itâs a challenge to nail down universal smoke points for fats. Different sources list different temperatures. From what I can tell, it depends on the quality, how you measure, etc. To simplify it, I grouped the fats into âlowâ, âmediumâ, and âhighâ smoke points.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil: An olive oil is extra virgin if it meets strict standards. And itâs never refined, which means itâs got âimpuritiesâ. But those impurities are full of flavor! Its low smoke point and high price tag mean I wouldnât cook with it unless Iâm doing a quick saute. I leave EVOO for pestos, salad dressings, hummus, or drizzling at the end to flavor.
Butter: Everybody loves butter! đ§ It has milk solids that add complex flavors, but they also cause butter to burn easily. Thatâs why itâs perfect for sauteing or stirred in to add flavor and body. Lastly, remember this. Butter is a solid at room temperature. So unless you want a congealed texture, only use it in dishes served hot!
Coconut Oil: Itâs pretty similar to butter. Itâs solid at room temperature, and itâs unrefined. So it burns easily. Use it for lower-temperature roasting or sauteing to take advantage of its slightly nutty, sweet flavor. I recommend it for Southeast Asian cuisines.
Sesame Oil: While it may seem like an obvious choice for stir-fry, Iâd actually avoid sesame oil there. Why? Most sesame oils are unrefined. So stick to drizzling it on top right before serving so you can taste its wonderful nuttiness.
Animal Fats: Lard, tallow (beef), schmaltz (chicken/goose), duck, bacon fatâthe list goes on. They work well for any type of cooking method that doesn't get too hot, like searing. But want to know the best part? Theyâre incredibly flavorful! If youâre lucky enough to have one of these fats left over, save them! Also, theyâre also solid at room temperature. Just an FYI if you donât trust your eyes. đ
Nut Oils: Almond, hazelnut, or pistachio oils are rich, nutty, and luxurious! While some of them may have decent smoke points, I wouldnât cook with them. Why? Theyâre expensive. đľ So save these for finishing oils.
Regular Olive Oil (High): The type of olive oil that sleeps around (đ) is typically refined, (aka no impurities). This means it's subtle in flavor and has a high smoke point. Itâs a versatile one!
Vegetable Oil (High): Whether itâs canola, grapeseed, or a blend, these neutral-tasting oils are perfect for high-temperature cooking. Theyâre inexpensive so use them when you need a lot of oil like when frying. And their neutrality means you have more control over the final flavor. Every kitchen needs vegetable oil.
Avocado or Peanut Oil (High): Theyâre pretty similar fats. Both are good for high-temperature cooking. While not entirely neutral in flavor, they are good universal cooking oils. Also, avocado oil is known for its health benefits, but it can be more expensive.
Ghee (High): Ghee is just butter with the milk solids removed and water cooked off. That means it doesnât burn as easily, and it has an amazing nutty flavor. Try it in Indian or Middle Eastern food. Or any cuisine really. You wonât regret it! đ
So what kind of fat do I use? I typically use grapeseed oil for a high smoke point, neutral oil. Butter and extra virgin olive oil make lots of appearances. And then I never let bacon fat go to waste! đĽ
I hope you learned more about cooking with fat! Have any questions? Hit reply and let me know.
Cheers,
Luciano đ¨âđł
P.S. If you are enjoying the newsletter, please forward it to a friend and tell them to subscribe! I would greatly appreciate it! â¤ď¸
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